:root{--paper:#faf9f5;--cream:#f2f0e9;--ink:#23352e;--muted:#6d756e;--green:#274b40;--green2:#53685c;--rust:#ad6746;--line:#dfdfd5;--page:1180px;--serif:'Noto Serif TC','Songti TC','PMingLiU',serif;--sans:'Noto Sans TC','PingFang TC','Microsoft JhengHei',sans}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:95px}
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.progress{height:2px;position:fixed;inset:0 auto auto 0;z-index:101;background:var(--rust);width:0;pointer-events:none}
.site-head{position:relative;z-index:30;background:var(--paper);border-bottom:1px solid #e8e8df}
.top-bar{height:74px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px}
.brand{white-space:nowrap;font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.13em;font-size:16px;color:var(--green)}
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.sep{height:1px;width:37px;background:var(--rust);margin:24px 0}.hero-desc{font-size:14px;color:#677169;line-height:2.08;max-width:420px;margin:0}.hero-desc strong{color:var(--green)}
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.hero-photo{position:relative;min-height:440px;height:min(565px,48vw)}.main-shot{position:absolute;inset:0 13% 13% 0;overflow:hidden;background:#dcd9cf}.main-shot img{object-position:50% 47%}
.side-shot{position:absolute;width:46%;height:48%;right:0;bottom:0;border:8px solid var(--paper);overflow:hidden;background:#dad7c8}.side-shot img{object-position:50% 50%}
.photo-label{position:absolute;top:13px;right:2%;writing-mode:vertical-rl;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.14em;color:#7d8c7d}.hero-caption{position:absolute;bottom:0;left:0;font-size:10px;color:#889487;letter-spacing:.11em}
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.intro-band{background:#f5f4ef;border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.intro-band .inner{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.9fr 1.3fr .9fr;gap:42px;align-items:center;padding:32px 0}.mini{font:600 19px/1.75 var(--serif);color:var(--green)}.intro-band p{font-size:13px;color:#657166;margin:0}.intro-band aside{font-size:12px;color:#728076;line-height:1.9;border-left:1px solid #d4d9d0;padding-left:28px}
.read-nav{position:sticky;z-index:20;top:0;background:rgba(250,249,245,.96);backdrop-filter:blur(12px);border-bottom:1px solid #e7e7dd}.read-nav .inner{min-height:62px;display:flex;gap:34px;align-items:center;overflow-x:auto;scrollbar-width:none}.read-nav .inner::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}.read-nav a{white-space:nowrap;font-size:12px;color:#687a6c;padding:17px 0 16px;border-bottom:2px solid transparent}.read-nav a.current,.read-nav a:hover{color:var(--green);border-bottom-color:var(--rust)}.read-nav .nav-brand{font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.1em;color:var(--rust);margin-right:auto}
.story{padding-bottom:100px}.article{width:min(770px,calc(100% - 54px));margin-inline:auto}.article p{margin:0 0 25px;font-size:16px;line-height:2.18;letter-spacing:.027em;text-align:justify;text-justify:inter-ideograph}.article p:last-child{margin-bottom:0}.lead{padding-top:84px}.lead p:first-child{font:400 20px/2 var(--serif);letter-spacing:.045em;color:#345041}
.chapter{margin-top:104px;display:flow-root}.chapter h2{font:600 clamp(27px,2.8vw,36px)/1.56 var(--serif);letter-spacing:.045em;margin:9px 0 30px;color:var(--green)}.kicker{color:var(--rust);font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.2em;font-weight:700}.article strong{color:#2b533f;font-weight:600}
.side-note{font:400 12px/1.8 var(--sans);color:#879185;border-left:2px solid #c3cbbc;margin:24px 0;padding:2px 0 2px 18px}
.float{width:43%;max-width:365px;float:left;margin:8px 32px 22px -98px}.float.right{float:right;width:45%;margin:8px -99px 22px 35px}.photo-wrap{position:relative;overflow:hidden;background:linear-gradient(115deg,#e8e7df,#b3b9a5);min-height:155px}.float .photo-wrap{height:420px}.float.right .photo-wrap{height:360px}.photo-wrap img{transition:transform .7s ease;filter:saturate(.91)}.photo-wrap:hover img{transform:scale(1.017)}.photo-wrap.no-image img{display:none}.fallback{display:none;position:absolute;inset:0;align-items:center;justify-content:center;padding:20px;text-align:center;font:14px/1.9 var(--serif);color:#6e7c6c}.photo-wrap.no-image .fallback{display:flex}.hero-photo .main-shot,.hero-photo .side-shot{position:absolute}
.full-bleed{width:min(1080px,calc(100% - 48px));margin:72px auto 12px}.full-bleed .photo-wrap{height:clamp(330px,48vw,565px)}.full-caption{width:min(770px,calc(100% - 54px));margin:0 auto}
.two-photos{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.05fr .82fr;gap:29px;width:min(980px,calc(100% - 68px));margin:58px auto 0;align-items:start}.two-photos figure:first-child .photo-wrap{height:420px}.two-photos figure:nth-child(2){margin-top:95px}.two-photos figure:nth-child(2) .photo-wrap{height:295px}
.pullquote{font:400 clamp(20px,2.4vw,26px)/1.9 var(--serif);color:#426755;text-align:center;letter-spacing:.06em;margin:80px auto 0;width:min(690px,calc(100% - 48px))}.pullquote:before,.pullquote:after{content:'';width:42px;height:1px;background:#b6c4b2;display:block;margin:0 auto 22px}.pullquote:after{margin:22px auto 0}
.food-terms{margin:40px 0 28px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.term{display:grid;grid-template-columns:130px 1fr;gap:22px;padding:16px 0;border-bottom:1px solid #e4e5dd}.term:last-child{border:0}.term b{font:600 15px/1.7 var(--serif);color:#344f3e}.term span{font-size:13px;line-height:1.9;color:#66766a}
.dark{background:#233e35;color:#f1f0e8;margin-top:110px;padding:77px 0 85px;position:relative;overflow:hidden}.dark:after{content:'ก๋วยเตี๋ยวเรือ';font:600 160px/1 var(--serif);color:rgba(255,255,255,.025);position:absolute;right:-35px;bottom:-10px;white-space:nowrap;pointer-events:none}.dark-grid{position:relative;z-index:1;display:grid;grid-template-columns:.9fr 1fr;gap:10%;align-items:start}.dark h2{font:500 clamp(27px,3vw,42px)/1.6 var(--serif);margin:13px 0 21px}.dark p{font-size:13px;color:#bccbbf;line-height:2}.dark .kicker{color:#cbac97}.howto{margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none}.howto li{padding:18px 0;border-top:1px solid #5c7468}.howto li:last-child{border-bottom:1px solid #5c7468}.howto strong{font-size:15px;font-weight:600;display:block;margin-bottom:4px}.howto .thai{color:#d2b59c;font-size:12px;font-weight:400;margin-left:8px}.howto small{font-size:12px;line-height:1.8;color:#b9c6ba}
.place{margin-top:105px}.place-top{padding:0 0 32px}.place-top h2{margin-bottom:20px}.place-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.08fr .92fr;gap:40px;width:min(1060px,calc(100% - 72px));margin:30px auto 18px;align-items:center}.place-layout .photo-wrap{height:440px}.place-layout .place-copy{font-size:15px;color:#576a5b;line-height:2}.place-layout .place-copy h3{font:600 25px/1.55 var(--serif);color:#254b39;margin:0 0 14px}.place-layout .place-copy p{margin:0 0 18px}
.detail-lines{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:35px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.detail-line{display:grid;grid-template-columns:112px 1fr;gap:16px;padding:17px 2px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.detail-line:last-child{border-bottom:0}.detail-line dt{color:#849084;font-size:13px}.detail-line dd{margin:0;font-size:14px;color:#455849;line-height:1.9}.detail-line dd small{display:block;font-size:12px;color:#8d948a}
.google{display:inline-flex;gap:7px;align-items:center;color:#387969;font-size:13px;border-bottom:1px solid #91b4a3;font-weight:600;padding-bottom:5px}.google:hover{color:#a86648;border-color:#a86648}
.trip-ending{padding-top:95px;font:400 22px/2 var(--serif);letter-spacing:.055em;text-align:center;color:#476553}
.credits{padding:36px 0 40px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);background:#f5f4ef}.credits details{width:min(770px,calc(100% - 54px));margin:auto}.credits summary{cursor:pointer;color:#4c6654;font-size:12px}.credits p,.credits li{font-size:11px;color:#7b877b;line-height:1.9}.credits ul{padding-left:20px}.credits a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px;color:#446b55}.credits li{margin-bottom:6px}
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.top{position:fixed;bottom:24px;right:22px;z-index:35;width:41px;height:41px;border:1px solid #b4c1b7;background:rgba(250,249,245,.96);color:var(--green);border-radius:50%;cursor:pointer;font-size:19px;opacity:0;pointer-events:none;transform:translateY(8px);transition:opacity .2s,transform .2s}.top.show{opacity:1;pointer-events:auto;transform:none}
@media(max-width:1050px){.float{margin-left:-35px}.float.right{margin-right:-35px}}
@media(max-width:820px){.hero{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:30px;padding-top:44px}.hero-photo{min-height:0;height:470px;max-width:680px;width:100%;margin:auto}.intro-band .inner{grid-template-columns:1fr 1.3fr;gap:25px}.intro-band aside{grid-column:1/-1;border-left:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:12px 0 0}.place-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:25px}.place-layout .photo-wrap{height:365px}}
@media(max-width:700px){.container{width:calc(100% - 42px)}.top-bar{height:65px}.brand{font-size:14px}.site-nav{display:none}.return{font-size:11px;padding:6px 11px}.crumb{padding-top:15px;font-size:10px}.hero{padding:41px 0 50px}.hero h1{font-size:38px;margin:15px 0}.hero h1 em{font-size:25px}.hero-lead{font-size:19px}.hero-desc{font-size:13px}.hero-photo{height:clamp(350px,106vw,455px)}.side-shot{border-width:6px}.intro-band .inner{padding:26px 0;grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:13px}.mini{font-size:18px}.intro-band aside{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:13px}.read-nav .inner{gap:23px;min-height:53px}.read-nav a{font-size:11px;padding:13px 0}.read-nav .nav-brand{margin-right:12px}.article{width:calc(100% - 45px)}.article p{font-size:15px;line-height:2.06}.lead{padding-top:55px}.lead p:first-child{font-size:18px}.chapter{margin-top:75px}.chapter h2{font-size:26px;margin-bottom:22px}.float,.float.right{float:none;width:100%;max-width:none;margin:5px auto 24px}.float .photo-wrap,.float.right .photo-wrap{height:auto;aspect-ratio:1.15}.float.right{width:84%;margin-left:auto;margin-right:0}.float.right .photo-wrap{aspect-ratio:1}.full-bleed{margin-top:49px;width:calc(100% - 20px)}.full-bleed .photo-wrap{height:290px}.two-photos{width:calc(100% - 40px);gap:14px;margin-top:38px}.two-photos figure:first-child .photo-wrap{height:270px}.two-photos figure:nth-child(2){margin-top:55px}.two-photos figure:nth-child(2) .photo-wrap{height:185px}.two-photos figcaption{font-size:10px}.pullquote{margin-top:55px;font-size:19px}.term{grid-template-columns:90px 1fr;gap:12px}.term b{font-size:13px}.term span{font-size:12px}.dark{margin-top:74px;padding:55px 0}.dark-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:20px}.dark h2{font-size:30px}.dark:after{font-size:72px}.place{margin-top:75px}.place-layout{width:calc(100% - 42px);grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:24px}.place-layout .photo-wrap{height:320px}.place-layout .place-copy h3{font-size:22px}.place-layout .place-copy{font-size:14px}.detail-line{grid-template-columns:80px 1fr}.detail-line dt{font-size:12px}.detail-line dd{font-size:13px}.trip-ending{padding-top:65px;font-size:18px}.foot{align-items:start;flex-direction:column;gap:8px}}
@media(max-width:380px){.hero h1{font-size:33px}.hero-photo{height:315px}.two-photos figure:first-child .photo-wrap{height:220px}.two-photos figure:nth-child(2) .photo-wrap{height:165px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}.photo-wrap img,.top{transition:none!important}}
@media print{.progress,.site-head,.read-nav,.top,.hero-links{display:none}.dark{-webkit-print-color-adjust:exact;print-color-adjust:exact}.chapter{break-inside:avoid}}

.hero-photo .main-shot{inset:0 0 8% 0}.place-layout.no-photo{display:block;width:min(770px,calc(100% - 48px));margin-inline:auto}.place-layout.no-photo .place-copy{max-width:none}.hero-photo .main-shot img{object-position:50% 54%}

.ay-related{padding:60px 24px;background:#f6f5ef;border-top:1px solid #dce0d9}.ay-related>div{width:min(900px,100%);margin:auto}.ay-related-kicker{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.15em;color:#6b7c6b}.ay-related h2{font:600 clamp(23px,3vw,31px)/1.5 "Noto Serif TC",serif;margin:8px 0 24px;color:#254331}.ay-related-links{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:14px}.ay-related-links a{display:grid;gap:5px;padding:20px 22px;background:#fff;border:1px solid #dce2d7;text-decoration:none;color:#254331}.ay-related-links a:hover{border-color:#64836a}.ay-related-links span{font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.1em;color:#6e806f}.ay-related-links strong{font-size:19px}.ay-related-links small{font-size:12px;color:#5a6e60}.ay-related-guide{display:inline-block;margin-top:22px;font-size:13px;color:#345f46;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px}@media(max-width:600px){.ay-related{padding:44px 20px}.ay-related-links{grid-template-columns:1fr}}